CAGAYAN DE ORO CITY- Last weekend we had an opportunity to present Mindanao’s Heritage of its Indigenous Dishes to the highest government agency charged with the stewardship of Philippine history and cultural heritage.
In town at that time were the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP) Chair Regalado Trota Jose, Jr.; Executive Director Carminda R. Arevalo, Project Development Officer IV Ellen B. Samonte of the Commemoration Section, and Creative Arts Specialist Jovan C. Soriano to help us commemorate the 80th Anniversary of the Liberation of Cagayan de Oro.
Between myself, Ruh Alonto and Rep. Rufus B. Rodriguez (2nd District, Cagayan de Oro) we invited the group to a unique culinary experience at Cucina Higala, home of Mindanao’s Heritage Dishes where the party was hosted by CEO Jan Uy and GM Joe Jake Almodobar.
Cucina Higala (which roughly translates to Friends Kitchen, a nod to Cagayan de Oro’s moniker as the City of Golden Friendship), is committed to providing its higalas with an unforgettable culinary and dining experience with its high-quality, flavorful food, specializing in classic Filipino dishes, particularly its signature Mindanao Heritage Dishes.
At Cucina Higala, every dish tells a story of the abundance and cultural diversity of Mindanao. From family heirloom recipes passed down through generations to the use of locally-sourced produce, the restaurant is advocating, supporting, and promoting the best dishes the island has to offer. Furthermore, the restaurant innovatively preserves and presents various taste profiles from the indigenous peoples found across Mindanao, showcasing their variety, uniqueness and rich heritage.
“You can have different kinds of food from different regions of Mindanao,” said NHCP Chair Regalado Trota Jose, Jr. “I am a bit biased because my relatives come from Zamboanga and Basilan, so I am particularly impressed with Cucina Higala. I think it’s important to promote this restaurant as a pioneer in introducing Pan-Mindanao food, because we in NHCP are trying to veer away from being Manila-centric for the rest of the country.”
Aside from the good food, Cucina Higala is effectively promoting the rich culture of the region,” noted Carminda R. Arevalo, NHCP Executive Director. “Maganda ang concept. No wonder dinarayo sila. Sana magkaroon ng ganoon ang iba pang mga region.”
Among the tasty dishes served to our higalas was the iconic Chicken Surol of Camiguin. Prepared similarly to tinolang manok, the chicken is simmered to perfection with coconut milk-based broth infused with ginger, lemon grass, and kalabo (Native Oregano) which exudes its signature aroma and served with fish sauce on the side.
Another salute to traditional Lumad cookery is their Nilotlot, listed in your menu as Bamboo Rice, their twist on the traditional in-bamboo tube cooking technique used by indigenous peoples all over the archipelago since time immemorial, particularly in Bukidnon. Cucina Higala’s Bamboo Rice has aromatic sticky rice lavished with seafood, chicken, bamboo shoots, with woodsy hints of caramel and soy, and is a meal in itself!
Moving further south of Mindanao to Maguindanao, the pièce de resistance of this magnificent buffet was Dinalutan a Seda. The fish used for this dish is the Mudfish (Channa striata, known as Aluan in Maguindanao, Haluan in Cebuano and Dalag in most parts of the Philippines).
Cucina Higala has taken the classic Dinilutan A Seda and brought together the flavors of sinugba and kinilaw, in their awesome take on Maguindanao gastronomy. Their crispy, deep fried Haluan is served on lime coconut milk dressing, with chilies, green mango strips and roasted coconut.
To enjoy, quarter the fish into bite-sized strips, mix the dressing with the other ingredients to your taste, dip the crispy Haluan, and voila! Pop it into your mouth for an unforgettable carnival of taste!
Back north to Mindanao’s largest lake, Beef Rendang is the quintessential Meranaw heritage dish that’s considered the King of the Curries, with Cucina Higala’s modern twist using Wagyu Beef, spices and coconut milk, with palapa and picked cucumber on the side.
But wait a minute! Another surprise among Cucina’s Mindanao Heritage Dishes is their Nangka Randang, a vegan take on the iconic Indonesian Rendang that’s been celebrated in Lanao for decades. Rendang is traditionally a Sumatran dish with slow cooked beef, braised in coconut milk and spices.
In lieu of the usual beef or the even more traditional carabeef, jackfruit or Nangka (known as Langka in Lanao) is simmered in coconut milk, lime and other spices. Young jackfruit especially is great for recreating this national Indonesian dish, as it has a meaty texture. I swear I can’t tell the difference with the meat version!
Humba is believed to have originated from the Chinese red braised pork belly dish, hong shao rou (a.k.a hong ba/hong ma). “Humba” might be a contraction of “humok nga baboy” (tender pork in Bisaya) or derived from the Chinese hong ba. While Humba may possibly been inspired by hong shao rou, it has since evolved closer to the Filipino adobo, with a richer, sweeter taste that’s become one of the signature Kagay-anon heritage dishes, celebrated in an annual Humba Festival in Barangay Iponan.
Sinuglaw! Not to forget the local Kagay-anon creation when local chefs did the unthinkable by mixing grilled pork (Sinugba) with Kinilaw (raw fish cooked in vinegar). Its unique taste comes from the juices of the tabon-tabon fruit (which removes the fishy odor), unique to Mindanao (although also used in Dumaguete) and suha (citrus lime).
Still another heritage dish originally coming from Bukidnon is Binaki, a cherished Filipino delicacy crafted from grated young corn blended with coconut milk, sugar, and occasionally butter. Its roots are deeply entwined with the local culture, often linked with the word “frog” due to the dialect’s association with baki (frog). The name Binaki arose from the posture of locals as they squat when preparing the dish, like a frog.
Cucina Higala has pioneered an exciting twist on tradition with their creation of Sizzling Binaki in Caramel Sauce, as part of their initiative to celebrate Mindanao’s rich culinary heritage. Their innovative take involves serving it on a sizzling plate, generously topped with creamy Vanilla Ice Cream and luscious Caramel Sauce. Given the abundance of corn in the region, and its significance as a primary crop in Mindanao, this adaptation pays homage to local flavors and ingredients.
“So we are trying to promote different councils, languages and foods from all over the country, to be shared with the rest of the country,” Prof. Jose observed. “Cucina Higala is one way of promoting unity by discovering our differences. We are a nation of differences, but we have to know that we are blending with each other very well. This is a good example of how food can be a good promoter of national unity.”
